You have electrical power out there? Always use soapy water to check for gas leaks at the bottle connections. If in Btr, Millers or the RV shops can help you. They will tell you how hard it is to remove and replace. Let me know if you need more info. In the winter, you can drain all lines, pull the pin on the relief valve on the heater(Some have a plug). This pin allows air into the heater tank.
Try JB Weld. I have fixed gas tanks with it. I have read of engine blocks being repaired with it. Again, the surfaces have to be clean and oil free.
Thanks for the help but I am in OKC. I'll figure something out. A new tank can't cost more than $200 I wouldn't imagine but who knows.
Talk to a body shop, they probably have some epoxy resin super-bondo that is more effective than Flexseal.
I actually have some plumbers putty type stuff that is supposed to be able to stand up to both pressure and heat. I actually patched most of the leak with it already but I'm impatient and turned the water on much too early. At least it showed me all the spots that I missed. The other thing is there is a nipple where one of the lines runs either into or out of the tank. The crack runs right to the weld where they joined the fitting to the tank and then almost all the way around the back side of it. Of course where it almost impossible to see and twice as hard to form putty into. I think a new tank just may be in order. Appreciate all the ideas, I'd let Amanda film the repair from here on out but I don't think that would work out well for anyone.
